Product FAQs

Both our Alto and Telos ultralight backpacking tents share many of the same design innovations and deliver on space, ventilation, and versatility.

The main distinction between the two is that the Telos are fully-featured, freestanding tents with multiple set-up configurations—including Hangout Mode. They are available in two and three-person sizes.

Our Alto tents are semi-freestanding and the lightest of our two ranges. The Alto is available in one and two-person sizes.

Freestanding tents can fully support themselves without needing to be pegged out, as their poles provide all the necessary structure—just peg out the vestibules. As such, freestanding tents are easy to pitch on any terrain.

Semi-freestanding tents prioritise packed size and weight by using a combination of tent poles and pegs to hold their shape.

Our Alto and Telos tents are designed with our unique Tension Ridge architecture. Where most tent brow poles angle down, the Tension Ridge is a revolutionary, antenna-like structure that angles up—raising the ceiling height without increasing the footprint, creating near vertical walls and higher doors, and giving you more space.

Tension Ridge also allowed us to put vents at the highest point of the tent to improve ventilation and reduce condensation.

Yes, our tents are very easy to pitch. We do have step-by-step guides for both models, too. Here is a video showing how to pitch the Telos tent. Here is a video showing how to pitch the Alto tent.

The overwhelming likelihood is that the moisture is condensation (we have yet to test a rainfly that had issues with the fabric or seam taping).

When a tent is pitched over wet ground, moisture from the ground/wet grass will turn to vapor which will rise and condense on the inside of the rainfly. Condensation is most likely to occur when the air temperature and dew point are very close together. Expelled breath from a sleeper/sleepers also adds to this moisture vapor and to the resulting condensation. Ventilation can help mitigate this.

Rain means that the air is saturated and can no longer hold any more moisture vapor: In a rainstorm, ventilation of a tent becomes even more important. Make sure to open the Baseline Vents of your Alto or Telos (lift up the bottom of the vestibule doors and attach them using the toggles) to create airflow up from ground level and out through the Apex vents.

One other factor is important: do not overtighten the tensioners at the tent corners/vestibules. Doing so may pull down on the Tension Ridge pole - the resultant inner tent shape may allow condensation to collect on the ceiling of the inner tent and potentially enter into your sleeping space.

Correctly pitched with the Baseline and Apex Vents deployed as designed, a Telos or Alto will mitigate condensation extremely effectively.

If a tent or tarp is rolled tightly before storing, any moisture trapped between the layers of coated fabrics can cause the coating to degrade. Equally, if a tent or tarp is stored for long periods in a sealed container, the humidity inside will remain constant and this may affect the coating.

For longer-term storage, do not store your tent or tarp in the stuff sack(s) provided with the product. Tents and tarps should be stored folded loosely in a container which allows for ventilation in a room free from damp / temperature extremes.

Both tent pegs are made from an anodized 7075-T6 alloy. 

The Ground Control Tent Pegs are 8in/20cm in length and weigh .5oz/14g each. They are available in a pack of 8 pegs.

The Ground Control Light Tent Pegs are 5.75in/15cm in length and weigh .25oz/7g each. They are available in a pack of 6 pegs. 

The Ground Control Light Tent Pegs also come with all of our Alto and Telos ultralight tents. 

Down sleeping bags offer the best ratio of warmth-to-packability, making them a favourite of lightweight hikers and campers. No other material also comes close to the performance, longevity, compactness and breathability of quality down.

Synthetic sleeping bags perform better in very wet conditions than their down counterparts and are ideal for those who are looking for an economic option and won't mind a little added weight.

Yes, Sea to Summit sleeping bags are tested in certified laboratories for temperature rating according to the European Norm EN 13537, that provides three temperature levels to help guide you when choosing a bag.

All Sea to Summit Unisex Sleeping Bags are listed using the LOWER limit, which is appropriate for male sleepers. Women end-users should use the COMFORT rating of a Unisex bag.

All Sea to Summit Women's Specific Sleeping Bags are listed using the COMFORT rating.

Yes, 100% of the down used in our sleeping bags is independently certified to the Responsible Down Standard (RDS). The RDS certifies down against animal welfare requirements and tracks it from the source to the final product. The purchase of RDS certified products demonstrates demand for better animal welfare practices in the down and feather supply chain.

We use Ultra-Dry Down insulation throughout our Down Sleeping Bag range. Along with DWR coatings on all sleeping bags, a little moisture is not a problem. The PFC-free treatment means down retains 60% more loft, absorbs 30% less moisture and dries 60% faster than untreated down when wet.

In extremely wet condition - a Synthetic Sleeping Bag may be your best option.

Cleaning and maintaining your sleeping bag is quite simple. High performance fabrics and down insulation can be delicate, so it's important to wash your bag with care. We have an excellent blog post with step-by-step instructions for washing your sleeping bag, read it here.

PRO TIP: Use a sleeping bag liner to keep your bag cleaner for longer.

If down is clumping, more than likely it is not completely dry. Place the sleeping bag into a dryer with some clean tennis balls to help break up the clumps as the down completely dries. Visit our blog post here for more details.

Two common reasons why a sleeping bag no longer lofts: the insulation is damp or dirty. 

Make sure your sleeping bag is completely dry before packing and storing. Throwing it into the dryer with some clean tennis balls will aid in this. 

Grime, oil, and salt from our bodies can stick to the down plumes or synthetic fibres, reducing loft. Visit our Blog Post for step-by-step instructions on how to wash your bag. 

You can zip certain Sea to Summit sleeping bags together, for a full list please go here.

The QuiltLock system uses the snap locks located at the shoulder and foot end of Sea to Summit sleeping bags plus the quilt footbox / quilt straps to secure a quilt to the sleeping bag. This adds thermal performance and versatility to your sleep system: your integrated quilt now works for ultralight summer adventures and turns your three-season bag into a four-season sleep system.

All Sea to Summit sleeping bags and Sea to Summit Ember, Cinder and Glow quilts can be connected together to create a sleep system which adds a season to the thermal performance of the sleeping bag.

If you have an older sleeping bag which does not have the snaps at the foot end, secure the quilt under the footbox of your sleeping bag using the strap that you normally use to secure the quilt to your sleeping mat.

Sea to Summit sleeping bags come with either an Ultra-Sil Compression Sack or Nylon Compression Sack. While the fabric may provide some water resistance, the seams are not sealed and the pull-cord closure will allow water inside. 

If you would like to upgrade to a waterproof bag for your sleeping bag, you may care to take a look at our eVent Compression Dry Sack (external use - 10,000mm hydrostatic head) or Ultra-Sil Compression Dry Sack (internal use - 2000+mm hydrostatic head). Both items are seam taped and have a roll-top closure to keep your sleeping bag dry on your adventures. 

Our Air Sprung Cell sleeping mats offer incredible comfort in a lightweight and compact package. They are ideal for ultralight and fast adventures where weight and pack size are critical.

They are also fast and easy to inflate—all our air mats have an Airstream Pumpsack integrated into the base of each stuff sack. Harnessing the Bernoulli effect, this handy pump can inflate your mat in a couple of breaths—with minimal effort and condensation.

Instead of the typical baffle construction you will find in typical air mats, our Air Sprung Cell Mats are constructed using a dot-weld pattern. This creates a matrix of interconnected chambers that support your body, much like a pocket spring mattress. They won’t wobble or become unbalanced when you roll over in the night.

All but our lightest mattresses are constructed with a layer of Exkin® Platinum coated THERMOLITE® insulation inside. Preventing heat loss by radiation and convection.
This insulation is another reason Sea to Summit Air Mats are so comfortable.

Unlike sleeping bags, it’s hard to assign temperature ranges to sleeping mats, however all Sea to Summit mats are independently tested to the industry standard ASTM F3340-18. This standardised testing produces consistent R-values across brands, making it easier for you to compare sleeping mats before buying.

We have a useful Blog Post to help you translate the language of R-Values into conditions you encounter on the trail.

Using a combination of air pressure, foam and soft fabrics, self inflating mats provide the comfort and support of a traditional bedroom mattress without the weight and bulk.

Expanding foam makes these mats easy to inflate, and provides insulation to keep you warm.
They are ideal for car camping or comfort focused campers and hikers who don't mind a little extra weight.

Our innovative design Delta Core and Delta Core-V strategically removes cores of PU foam where they’re no longer needed, which makes our self-inflating sleeping mats lighter to carry, whilst not compromising on warmth.

Our unique Delta Coring means that in thicker mats the outer fabric layer has full contact with the internal foam. This results in a more reliable connection and prevents mattresses suffering from delamination.

The inside of the sleeping mat is open-cell foam; in essence, it is just like a bath sponge. If you were to squeeze a bath sponge flat in your hand, it would draw itself full of air once you released your grip. Exactly the same thing happens in a self-inflating mat, except that the 'sponge' has an airtight skin around it with a valve. Once the valve is opened, the foam core will draw air into the mat.

The sleeping mats are vacuum-packed at the factory to save on space and thus on shipping costs. This sometimes causes the individual cells of the foam to stick together, so that when the valve is opened for the first time, the mat may not inflate.

If you were to manually-inflate your mat (either by mouth or using a pump-sack), the cells inside would unstick and the mats will self-inflate the next time you use them. 

The external fabric of the Air Sprung Cell mats is a high tensile, high thread-count nylon, which makes it extremely strong. It also has a coating to aid in repair and reduce slipperiness. In some cases, this coating and the fabric of your sleeping bag or the floor of your tent may interact to create some noise. We could use a softer or a textured fabric, which would reduce the noise issue – but it would not be as durable. We build mats to last – softer fabrics would negatively impact the longevity of an air mat.

Placing a t-shirt or camp towel under hips/shoulder region between the mat and tent floor or sleeping bag can help to limit the noise. 

Sea to Summit sleeping mats are not treated with flame retardants of any kind. They are also free from PFOA, PFCs, and BPA. 

The first step is to determine the source of the air loss. With an Air Sprung Cell mat or a lighter-weight Self Inflating mat, it is relatively easy to submerge the mat to check for bubbles. With a Comfort Plus Double SI or a Comfort Deluxe SI Mat, this is impractical, and wiping the inflated mat with soapy water is the best option.

Start by checking the valve – submerge just the part of the mat where the valve(s) are located. If bubbles come from the valve, replacing the valve insert may resolve the issue contact us if you would like more details).

If the air loss comes from the body of the mat: Mark the point where the air is exiting with a ball-point pen, dry the mat, and clean the area to be repaired using isopropyl alcohol. Then use the repair kit supplied. You can find details here.

If you are unable to find the source of the air loss, or the air appears to exit through a number of separate points, contact us via the warranty form.

Please know that the mould is not growing inside your mat. The antimicrobial treatment on the interior TPU of the mat is permanent, and incredibly effective at preventing any growth inside the mat.

If mould is forming in the exterior of the mat, it is likely that the mat has been put away damp. Even if you did not experience precipitation or other obvious moisture on a trip, condensation can occur between the relatively warm mat and the cold floor of a tent. A rolled-up mat is the perfect environment for mould to develop on the exterior of the mat.

Treat the mould with an enzyme cleanser and a non-abrasive sponge. It will not eliminate the black spots, but it will kill the mould that causes them. Allow the mat to completely air dry before packing it again.

We recommend storing all sleeping mats (Air Sprung Cell mats or Self Inflating mats) with the valves open, laid out as flat as practicable or hung from the rail of a closet. If you have to reduce the size of the mat to store it, rolling it loosely or folding it is better for the insulation (Air Sprung Cell mats) or foam (Self Inflating mats) than rolling it tightly.

Sea to Summit Air Sprung Cell mats use an advanced manufacturing technology that is extremely resilient to moisture. The airproof barrier also includes an anti-microbial compound that prevents mold from growing inside the mat.

In the very long term (many years of normal use), moisture from condensed breath could possibly weaken the air-proof barrier inside the mat. For this reason, using a pump to inflate a mat, and storing it with the valve open to allow any internal moisture to dry out is recommended.

Since Spring 2018, our Air Sprung Cell mats are supplied with an Integrated Pump Sack which significantly reduces the amount of condensed breath in the mat. We also recommend using an Air Stream Dry Sack Pump for ‘topping off’ SI mats.

A sleeping bag liner is a much-needed barrier that can significantly raise your hygiene standards on the trail and increases the longevity of your sleeping bag. It can also add a few degrees of warmth to your down or synthetic sleeping bag.

All our sleeping liners are machine washable in cold to warm water, and require only your standard laundry detergent. If you’re using a top-loader washing machine, place the liner in a pillowcase or laundry bag first to stop any cords being caught up in the impeller.

Steer clear of fabric softeners when cleaning your liner as they can affect the wicking properties of the material. To dry your liner, it’s best to hang it on a washing line to air dry. This applies to both liners made from natural fibers or those made from polyester. Using a dryer could expose it to excessive heat, which can damage the fabric.

This is a hugely personal choice, and can't be answered in a single quick answer.

A really basic primer looks like this: the Silk, Silk/Cotton, and Expander liners are aimed primarily at travellers. They can be used for backpacking and will add some warmth, but not tons.

The Coolmax liners are designed for sleeping bags in warm and humid weather but are also great for travellers who like a more t-shirt like feel for their liner. Consumers based in the USA can also purchase Insect Shield-treated versions of the Adaptors which offer great protection against certain insects.

The Thermolite liners are made for increasing the warmth of your sleeping bag in colder temperatures. The warmer ones can be used as standalone sleeping bag substitutes in warm weather.

If you have ever tried a liner and found it to be constrictive, we would direct you to the Adaptor, Reactor, or Expander series – all three are made of really stretchy fabric.

The momme weight for the (ripstop) silk used in our 100% Premium Silk liners is 10.

There are a huge number of variables that impact the add-on thermal performance that you can expect from a liner. Besides environmental conditions, here are two significant factors:

- Some sleeping bags retain warmth better than others (this is usually due to construction details like hoods, draft collars/draft tubes, and footboxes). The temperature rating of the bag may not be representative of the temperature a live, moving sleeper will sleep comfortably at.

– Some sleeping pads insulate better than others (this is often due to whether internal air movement dissipates warmth)

There is no internationally recognized laboratory test for measuring liner thermal performance. We don't want to set the expectation that a liner will absolutely add a certain amount of warmth, hence the ‘adds up to’ designation applied to the Reactor series.

For more information regarding adding warmth with a liner, visit our Blog Post. 

The Silk/Cotton Liners are made of a blend of 30% pure silk and 70% cotton.

Sea to Summit does not apply flame retardants to any of its liners.

Since 2019, all Sea to Summit sleeping mats have included 4 adhesive patches that are placed on the sleeping mat. The patches adhere to the fabric of our Pillows (with the Pillow Lock logo), keeping your pillow in place no matter how much you move during the night. 

If you have an older model Aeros Pillow (Regular and Large sizes), the Aeros Pillow Case product will allow you to utilize the Pillow Lock system. 

Air loss in Aeros Pillows is most frequently due to a puncture, or an issue with the airproof barrier or one of the RF welds.

(most weld or airproof barrier issues are due to moisture from condensed breath remaining in the pillow during longer-term storage. For this reason, we recommend storing your Aeros Pillow unrolled with the valve open).

Aeros pillows can be quite tricky to repair, so replacement may be the best option. If the pillow was purchased online or from an authorised Sea to Summit reseller, this replacement may be covered by warranty, contact us for more information.

Do not put your pillow in the washing machine – the wash and spin cycle may well cause the bladder to become twisted inside the ‘pillowcase’ (if you have a Premium or Down Pillow), or cause the TPU lining to separate from the outer fabric (if you have an Ultralight Pillow).

We recommend hand washing with a gentle soap and water mixture (Wilderness Wash or Dr. Bronner’s soaps work really well for the Premium and Ultralight Pillow, while Grangers Down Wash works well with the Down Pillow), and if necessary, you can use a non-abrasive sponge. Let the pillow completely air dry with the valves open before storing the pillow flat with the valves still open.

For more information regarding the best way to wash your Aeros Pillow, visit our Blog. 

There should be no issues at all in washing the Foam Core Pillow in a front-loader washing machine, but the vigorous action of a top-loader washing machine may displace the foam inside the pillow.

When drying the Foam Core Pillow, air drying is preferable. If a Foam Core Pillow is machine dried, make sure to use a cool setting, and check to make sure there are no sharp spots in the drum which would snag on the knitted outer fabric.

For short-term storage, you can simply roll up the pillow and pack it away in its stuff sack.

For longer-term storage, open the valve and lay the pillow flat – this will allow the internal moisture to dry out.

Correct storage of an Aeros Pillow is really important to prolonging its life. The majority of air-loss issues we see with Aeros Pillows are attributed to moisture from condensed breath remaining in the pillow when the pillow is packed away. The moisture can weaken the welds or the air proof barrier. 

None of Sea to Summit's cookware is designed to be used over an open fire.

Flames projecting beyond the base and touching the sides of the X-Pot can damage the silicone rubber or melt the lid. The nylon handles of the X-Kettle can also melt.

The PEEK material of the Pivot Lock thumb latch and the silicone rubber handle grip of our Alpha Pot and Sigma Pot can also be damaged if used over an open fire.

A pot needs to be magnetic to work with an induction stove top. The aluminium base of an X-Pot or Alpha Pot, and the non-magnetic stainless steel of a Sigma Pot will not work with this kind of stove.

An Alpha or Sigma Pot can be used on a domestic gas or electric stove. However – the very thin gauge base of an Alpha or Sigma Pot will conduct heat far more readily than normal kitchen pots and pans.

For this reason, if you use them at home, keep the heat setting lower than normal and watch carefully to ensure that the pot does not boil dry. If a pot does boil dry, the base may become warped or damage the base coating on the Sigma Pot. 

An X-Pot can be used on a domestic gas or electric stove. However – the very thin gauge base of an X-Pot will conduct heat far more readily than normal kitchen pots and pans. For this reason, if you use an X-Pot at home, keep the heat setting lower than normal and watch carefully to ensure that the pot does not boil dry. If a pot does boil dry, the base will become warped and may separate from the silicone rubber.

None of these three cookware ranges are dishwasher safe.

The alloy base of the X-Pots, the surface of the Alpha Pots, and the handle mount of the Sigma Pots are all hard anodized, and this finish will be damaged by the caustic cleanser used in dishwashers.

A #2 cone coffee filter will fit the diameter of the X-Brew perfectly; it will project a little above the rim of the cone, which will allow for the paper filter to settle during the filtering process.

No. Whilst the entire Sea to Summit dinnerware range is food grade heat resistant, they are not designed to be used in the microwave.

No. Whilst the entire Sea to Summit dinnerware range is food grade heat resistant, they are not designed to be used in the microwave.

We do not recommend washing your Alpha/Alpha Light and Titanium Cutlery in a dishwasher.

Alpha and Alpha Light Cutlery are hard anodized. This finish will be damaged by the caustic cleanser used in dishwashers. The cutlery will have a rough, matte appearance if damage of this kind occurs; damaged utensils should not be used.

Titanium Cutlery has a blue anodized finish. If this finish is removed by the cleanser of a dishwasher, the cutlery (which will now be grey) is still safe to use.

Biodegradable simply means that a compound will break down when exposed to environmental agents including water and UV light (i.e. sunlight).

Biodegradable soaps will harm aquatic life; they should not be used in lakes and streams. Please follow Leave No Trace principles and wash/dispose of waste water at least 200 feet / 70m away from open water.

Water above 140°F / 60°C will damage the seam tape of the Kitchen Sink / UltraSil Kitchen Sink. It's always best to start with cold water in a Kitchen Sink and add hot water to reach the desired temperature.

Bleach will damage the coating and (in strong enough concentrations) the nylon of a Kitchen Sink. If you use bleach in a Kitchen Sink, it should be in a very, very mild concentration.

As soon as you get your Watercell / Pack Tap home, wash it out with warm water and dish soap, rinse it thoroughly and dry it completely. A Watercell should be hung to dry upside down using the lash points on the side. A Pack Tap should be positioned so the opening faces downwards - a spacer in the form of a repurposed wire coat hanger or the end of a kitchen spoon will allow air to circulate through the bladder.

Failure to get either of these products completely dry prior to storage may result in internal mould growth.

Do not use boiling water to clean either product. The heat welds of the Pack Tap will fail instantly.

If your Pack Tap or Watercell has residue from fruit juice or wine inside, and warm water and dish soap do not remove it, do not use a bleach solution to clean it out. If you do, it will taste like bleach for many uses afterward. Instead, use effervescent peroxide tablets to remove any sticky stains.

Any of the dry bags that use abrasion-resistant fabrics of 70 Denier or heavier are suitable for true external use.

The Lightweight and View dry sacks, eVac Dry Sacks and 70D eVent Compression Dry Sacks, Stopper, Big River, and Hydraulic dry bags are intended to be used directly outside a backpack.

Any of the lighter dry sacks (Ultra-Sil Dry Sacks or UltraSil eVent Compression Dry Sacks and Ultra-Sil Nano) are only designed for internal use inside another bag or backpack. 

Sleeping bags vary in their packed volume, depending on the type of insulation and what shell and liner fabrics they use. So - it’s not possible to simply equate a bag temperature rating with a compression sack size. Instead, you’ll need to determine your sleeping bag’s volume and equate that to litres.

HOW DO I DETERMINE THE VOLUME OF MY SLEEPING BAG?

If you’ve bought a Sea to Summit sleeping bag, look up the volume of the bag on our product pages.

If your sleeping bag is from another brand, the size of the stuff sack supplied with the bag may be on the manufacturer's website (or on the product specifications page of a website such as rei.com). The capacity of the stuff sack is equal to the mildly compressed volume of the sleeping bag.

If no volume is quoted for the stuff sack: 

1. Measure the radius of the circular base and the height of the stuff sack in inches.

2. Multiply 3.2 x the radius x the radius x the height.

3. Now divide by 61 to give the volume in litres.

4. Alternately, measure in centimetres and divide the total by 1000 to calculate the volume in litres.

HOW DO I DETERMINE THE VOLUME OF MY SLEEPING BAG IF I DON'T HAVE THE STUFF SACK?

1. Put your bag in a cardboard box (one which is larger than the bag).

2. Measure the length and width of the box in inches.

3. Press the sleeping bag down firmly until the upper surface is roughly level in the box (the bag is now mildly compressed).

4. Measure the average depth that the bag occupies in inches.

5. Now multiply length x width x depth = volume in cubic inches.

6. Divide the total by 61 = volume in litres.

7. Alternately, measure in centimetres and divide the total by 1000 to calculate the volume in litres.

NOW YOU KNOW THE VOLUME OF YOUR SLEEPING BAG IN LITERS 

The sizes of our compression sacks are listed in the Tech Specs section on each compression sack webpage.

Check out our blog post to find out which type of compression sack you will need.

Yes, you really do.

Water can seep through the roll-top closure of a dry sack/bag (regardless of brand), so double-bagging is a common sense measure to prevent your phone from getting wet or damaged. Relying on a single dry sack/bag, no matter how new it is or how well it has been taken care of, is not something we would recommend. 

You can read more about Packing Electronics on our blog. 

Imagine a vertical tube with a fabric sample clamped at the base so that no water can escape – now add water. The height of the column of water in millimeters at the point where the water forces its way through the fabric/coating is called the hydrostatic head.

There is no internationally accepted standard for how high this should be for a ‘waterproof’ fabric.

In real-world terms, a dry bag intended for use inside a backpack will only require a modest hydrostatic head; a dry bag intended for paddling will need a much higher hydrostatic head.

Ultra-Sil tests at over 2000mm (more waterproof than some tent floors), which is perfectly adequate for waterproof storage inside a pack, but not sufficient for use in paddle situations. A dry sack intended for paddling will need a hydrostatic head of 10,000mm. 

Read more on our BLOG. 

We always recommend "double bagging" any electronics that are to go in a dry bag.

For seriously wet conditions, or for storage of very expensive camera gear, a Pelican case, or other hard case with an ‘O’-Ring seal are the safest bet.

If you choose to use dry bags, we would recommend using one of our IPX8 rated cases inside a Lightweight or heavier dry bag.

Visit our blog post: Packing Electronics for more information. 

Despite trail rumors of fabrics ‘blowing out’, a hole in a fabric is the result of contact with some external factor. Rough surfaces may produce abrasion damage (‘fuzzy’ edges), sharp objects may result in a puncture which spreads as a tear (along the lines of the weave), or as a cut (the line of damage goes across yarns).

Modern technology means that weave errors in production are a thing of the past.

Damage to products is not a warranty issue per se. Depending on the type of stuff or compression sack you have, and the size of the hole, it may well be possible to repair it permanently using a urethane sealant called Seam Grip +WP or Seam Grip +SIL (Ultra-Sil products). Please visit our Blog Post "How to Repair Holes in Your Gear" for step-by-step instructions.

The external pocket of the Rapid or Flow Dry Pack is not waterproof; it is merely water-resistant. There are two reasons for this:

- The zipper is a water-resistant zipper. It will withstand light rain, but not a heavy downpour.

- The seam that attaches the pocket to the body of the pack is taped on the inside of the main pack compartment, but cannot be taped inside the pocket. Water will not enter the main compartment of the pack through this seam, but it will eventually seep sideways through the seam into the pocket.

If you are using your Dry Pack in very wet areas, we recommend packing sensitive items into dry sacks and storing these in the main compartment of the pack.

Our TPU Accessory Cases and TPU Smartphone Cases have been tested to an IPX8 rating. 

This means the products have been tested to be waterproof to a water pressure equivalent to a depth of 10 meters, for up to 1 hour when properly closed. 

An IPX8 rating does not guarantee that an electronic device stored in a Sea to Summit product will withstand that kind of pressure nor are these storage products designed for intentional submersion.